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Enter your values to see the estimated cost

Every FDM print has two real costs that most makers either estimate badly or ignore entirely: the filament consumed and the electricity burned during the print. Tracking only filament misses the runtime electricity bill; tracking only electricity misses your material investment. This calculator combines both into one honest number, with an optional markup to cover machine wear, failed prints and overhead. Whether you're a hobbyist who wants to know where their money goes, or a small seller trying to price prints without losing money, this tool gives you a transparent breakdown in seconds.

The formula, explained step by step

The calculation has two independent parts that add together, then an optional multiplier.

Part 1 — Filament cost:
Filament cost = (grams used ÷ spool weight in grams) × spool price

You're calculating what fraction of the spool you consumed, then multiplying by the spool's price. A standard 1 kg (1000 g) PLA spool at $22 costs exactly $0.022 per gram. A 24 g print uses 24 ÷ 1000 = 2.4% of the spool, costing 0.024 × $22 = $0.528. This fraction approach is more accurate than rounding to a "cost per gram" estimate because it reflects your exact spend.

Part 2 — Electricity cost:
Electricity cost = (printer watts ÷ 1000) × print time in hours × electricity rate ($/kWh)

You're converting watts to kilowatts (÷ 1000), then multiplying by time to get kilowatt-hours — the unit your electricity company bills. A 150 W printer running 3.5 hours consumes 150 ÷ 1000 × 3.5 = 0.525 kWh. At $0.15/kWh, that's $0.079. In Germany at €0.32/kWh, the same print costs €0.168 — more than double. Electricity rate matters enormously when printing at scale.

Markup (optional):
Total = (filament cost + electricity cost) × (1 + markup ÷ 100)

A 20% markup on a $0.61 base cost adds $0.12, bringing the total to $0.73. This covers machine depreciation (a $300 printer spread over 500 hours of printing costs $0.60/h), filament waste from purge lines and failed first layers, and nozzle wear.

How to use this calculator

  1. Open your slicer and slice your model. PrusaSlicer, Cura, OrcaSlicer and Bambu Studio all show a print summary after slicing. Look for "Filament used" in grams and the estimated print time in hours and minutes.
  2. Enter the filament weight and print time. Convert the print time to decimal hours (e.g., 3h 30m = 3.5 h). The filament weight from the slicer is already in grams.
  3. Enter your spool price and weight. The spool weight is the net filament weight — usually 1000 g for a 1 kg spool. The spool itself weighs 200–250 g extra and is not counted. Check the filament packaging for the net weight.
  4. Enter your printer's wattage. If you don't know it, use 150 W for a standard Ender 3 or Prusa MK4 class printer, 200–250 W for a Bambu Lab X1C or P1S, and 300+ W for large-format printers. A smart plug with power monitoring (like a Kasa EP25 or Shelly Plug) gives you the real number.
  5. Enter your electricity rate. Find this on your utility bill or search "[your country] average electricity rate kWh". US average is around $0.13–$0.17/kWh. UK is about £0.24/kWh. Germany averages around €0.32/kWh.
  6. Add a markup if needed. For personal use, leave this at 0. For selling, a 15–25% markup covers machine wear without over-pricing your prints.

Real-world examples

Example 1: Small decorative PLA print (Ender 3, standard conditions)

A 24 g decorative miniature base, printed on an Ender 3 Neo at 150 W, 3.5 h print time, $22/kg PLA spool, US electricity at $0.14/kWh, no markup:
Filament: 24 ÷ 1000 × $22 = $0.53
Electricity: 0.15 kW × 3.5 h × $0.14 = $0.074
Total: $0.60 — roughly the cost of a cheap candy bar to produce a physical object.

Example 2: Functional PETG bracket (Bambu Lab P1S)

A 95 g engineering bracket in PETG, printed on a Bambu P1S at 220 W, 5.5 h, $28/kg PETG spool, $0.15/kWh, 20% markup for commercial use:
Filament: 95 ÷ 1000 × $28 = $2.66
Electricity: 0.22 kW × 5.5 h × $0.15 = $0.18
Subtotal: $2.84 × 1.20 markup = $3.41
This is your true cost before any labor or profit margin.

Example 3: Large ABS part with overnight print (Europe)

A 340 g ABS enclosure printed in an enclosure-equipped printer at 280 W, 16 h overnight, $26/kg spool, €0.30/kWh (Germany):
Filament: 340 ÷ 1000 × $26 = $8.84
Electricity: 0.28 kW × 16 h × $0.30 = €1.34
Total ≈ $10.18 + €1.34 — electricity becomes a significant fraction (12%) of total cost at European rates. This is why high-speed printing that cuts a 16 h job to 8 h saves real money in high-electricity-cost countries.

Example 4: Print farm economics

A print farm running 6 printers simultaneously, each printing a 50 g part in 4 h at 150 W, $20/kg PLA, $0.13/kWh:
Per printer: (50 ÷ 1000 × $20) + (0.15 × 4 × $0.13) = $1.00 + $0.078 = $1.078
× 6 printers = $6.47 total material+electricity cost per batch. Tracked over a month of 3 batches/day, this insight tells the farm operator where their biggest costs lie and whether bulk filament purchasing makes sense.

Who uses this calculator

Hobbyists and makers use it to understand where their money goes. It's surprisingly common to discover that a print you assumed cost $3 actually cost $0.80 — or vice versa when using expensive materials at high electricity rates.

Etsy and eBay sellers use it as the starting point for pricing. The output of this calculator feeds directly into the 3D Print Price Calculator to add labor, margin and marketplace fees.

Print farm operators use it to track cost per part and evaluate whether upgrading to faster printers (higher wattage) offsets the reduced cycle time.

3D printing enthusiasts buying new filament compare materials by their true cost per print, not just the sticker price per spool — a $35 engineering-grade PETG may cost less per print than a $20 budget PLA that produces more failures.

Common mistakes to avoid

Using nameplate wattage instead of actual draw. A printer rated at 350 W on its label may only draw 120–180 W during steady-state printing (after the bed reaches temperature). The nameplate is the peak draw; real average draw is 40–60% lower for most desktop printers. Use a power meter for accurate data.

Forgetting that spool weight is net filament only. A "1 kg spool" weighs 1200–1300 g total. The spool itself weighs 200–250 g. Enter 1000 (not 1250) in the spool weight field, or weigh the empty spool and subtract.

Not accounting for failure rate. If 1 in 10 prints fails mid-way, your effective filament cost is 10% higher. Either add a 10% markup or mentally adjust your expectations. Failure rates are higher with new filament brands, new materials or complex overhangs.

Using slicer time without adding heating time. Most slicers report only the active print time. Add 5–10 minutes for bed and hotend warmup, especially relevant for shorter prints where warmup is a large fraction of total runtime.

Practical tips for reducing print costs

Measure your actual power draw. A $15–25 smart plug with energy monitoring (Kasa EP25, Shelly Plug S, TP-Link Tapo P115) plugs between your printer and the wall socket and logs actual kWh consumed. After a few prints, you'll have your real average wattage — often 20–30% lower than you assumed.

Buy filament in multi-pack bundles. The cost per kg drops significantly when buying 3–5 spools at once. A $22/kg single spool often drops to $17–19/kg in a 5-pack. On a print farm running 200 kg/year, that's $600–1000 in annual savings.

Track actual vs. estimated weight. Weigh your finished prints on a kitchen scale. Consistently higher-than-expected weights suggest your slicer's density setting is off, or you're over-extruding. Consistently lower weights can indicate under-extrusion.

Print at night in high-rate time-of-use plans. If your electricity provider uses time-of-use pricing, off-peak rates (typically 9pm–7am) can be 30–50% cheaper than peak rates. A 16-hour print started at 9pm runs almost entirely at off-peak rates.

Use the markup field strategically. Instead of guessing, calculate your printer's depreciation cost: printer price ÷ expected lifetime hours. A $400 printer lasting 2000 print hours costs $0.20/h in depreciation. Add this to your markup calculation for accurate cost tracking.

Recommended: A smart plug with energy monitoring will immediately pay for itself by giving you real wattage data. Also consider buying filament in multi-packs to reduce your per-gram cost.

Frequently asked questions

Does this calculator include the printer's purchase cost?
No — it covers filament material and electricity only. To include machine depreciation, calculate your printer's cost per hour (printer price ÷ expected lifetime hours) and fold that into the markup percentage. A $300 printer lasting 2000 hours costs $0.15/h. On a 3.5-hour print, that's $0.53 in depreciation — almost equal to the filament cost. For professional pricing, including this is important.
Where do I find filament weight and print time in my slicer?
In PrusaSlicer: click the slice button, then check the print info panel at the bottom right — it shows filament used in grams and print time. In Cura: after slicing, the bottom bar shows time and filament length (convert length to grams using our Filament Weight Calculator). In OrcaSlicer and Bambu Studio: the slice summary popup shows both weight and time directly. These are estimates — actual usage can vary by ±5% due to extrusion multiplier calibration.
How accurate is the electricity estimate?
The estimate is within 10–20% of actual cost for most desktop FDM printers, assuming you use a reasonable average wattage. The main source of error is that real power draw fluctuates: the bed heater cycles on/off to maintain temperature, hotend heating adds spikes, and motion systems consume varying amounts during acceleration. For precise tracking, use a smart plug with energy monitoring and measure a few prints, then use that real average as your wattage input.
What wattage should I enter for my printer?
Use these starting estimates if you don't have a power meter reading: Creality Ender 3 / Ender 3 V3 SE: 80–120 W average. Prusa MK4 / MK3.5: 120–150 W. Bambu Lab A1 / P1S: 180–250 W. Bambu Lab X1C: 200–280 W. Raise3D / large format: 300–500 W. Resin printers: 40–70 W. These are average during printing, not peak. A $20 smart plug will give you exact data after one print.
How do I find my electricity rate?
Check your electricity bill — it lists the rate per kWh, sometimes split into supply charge and delivery charge (add both for the effective rate). US residential average is $0.12–$0.18/kWh depending on state. UK averages about £0.24/kWh. Germany is around €0.30–0.35/kWh. Australia averages AUD $0.28–0.35/kWh. Some plans have time-of-use pricing — use your off-peak rate if you print at night.
What markup percentage should I use?
For personal tracking: 0%. For covering machine depreciation and wear: 15–20%. For hobby sellers who also want to cover failures and consumables (nozzles, bed surfaces, adhesive): 25–35%. For professional print services that include overhead, storage and customer support: 40–60%. The markup here is only for cost tracking — it's not the profit margin you'd use for pricing. Use the separate Price Calculator for Selling to add proper margins and marketplace fees.
Why is my actual filament use different from the slicer estimate?
Slicers calculate based on the theoretical extrusion path. Real filament use differs because of: (1) extrusion multiplier calibration — if over 100%, you use more filament than estimated; (2) purge lines and skirt/brim that aren't always counted; (3) oozing and stringing that wastes a small amount; (4) supports, which slicers do estimate but can vary. Weigh your finished prints on a kitchen scale to calibrate your expectations over time.
Does filament type significantly change the cost?
Yes, in two ways. First, price per kg varies: budget PLA ~$15–22/kg, quality PLA+ ~$20–28/kg, PETG ~$22–35/kg, ABS ~$20–30/kg, ASA ~$25–40/kg, Nylon ~$30–60/kg, TPU ~$25–40/kg. Second, density affects how many grams you get from a spool: ABS (1.04 g/cm³) gives more prints per kg than PETG (1.27 g/cm³) by volume. Our Filament Weight Calculator handles this conversion.
How should I account for failed prints in my cost calculation?
The simplest approach is to track your failure rate over time. If 1 in 12 prints fails mid-way (consuming, say, 60% of the filament before failing), your effective material cost increases by about 5%. Add that as extra markup, or simply accept a small budget buffer. New materials, new printers and complex geometries have higher failure rates — ABS and flexible filaments can fail 1 in 5 prints for new users.
Is electricity cost worth worrying about for small prints?
For a single 3-hour print on a 150 W printer at $0.15/kWh, electricity costs about $0.07 — negligible. But at scale it matters: 8 printers running 20 hours/day for a month consumes 8 × 0.15 kW × 20 h × 30 days = 720 kWh. At $0.15/kWh, that's $108/month just in electricity. For a print farm in Germany at €0.32/kWh, the same scenario costs €230/month. At that scale, upgrading to faster printers to reduce print time pays back quickly.
Can I use this for resin printing?
This calculator is designed for FDM filament printing. For resin (SLA/MSLA), use the dedicated Resin 3D Print Cost Calculator, which uses resin volume (ml) and bottle price instead of filament weight and spool price. Resin printers also draw much less power (40–70 W vs. 150+ W for FDM), so the electricity cost component is smaller.